The Final Leg

After the big day to pass through Los Angeles, I relaxed in Dana Point at the tree-lot with Bodie and his coworker Sal for a day. We "roughed it" in the RV sans electricity. It was pretty funny to find myself holing up in the same type of vehicle I so frequently cursed throughout the last 5 weeks. But, you do what you can with what you have, right? With only 80 miles between me and Mexico, I opted for one more night of camping before entering San Diego and hitting the border. San Elija State Park was the stop. The campground was full and the hiker/biker area was closed for the week, which left me a little bit homeless. I cruised through the camp, found a nice older guy to chat with, shared with him my dilema, and soon found myself with a spot for my sleeping pad and a cold Budweiser in my hand. Very hospitable was John and his son John. The Park Ranger, however, seeing someone sleeping next to his bike under a brown tarp, was not quite as friendly about lending a hand. His suspicion was that I had snuck in to the spot without permission. Well, after a midnight wakeup with a flashlight in my face and some detailed explaining to an agressive young ranger, I was back to sleep. He may have been a bit ashamed in the morning as I dined on fresh coffee, cereal, fresh berries and toast with my friendly hosts. If you are reading this Mr. Ranger, I'd like to say that I think you're an ass...A nice sunrise though.

After breakfast and surf viewing with the Johns I headed South. I made some accidental detours as I headed into the city but eventually made my way through downtown, past marinas, cruise ships, and lots of Navy presence. Thankfully a lot of this was on official bike routes, because it could've been pretty hellish without.

The signs became more frequent as well

Saturday the 22nd at around 1pm I reached the Mexico border with around 1,900 miles on the total odometer. I had rain days, cold days, painful days and pleasant days off. I met up with lots of old friends and met just as many others. My first bicycle tour will definitely not be my last.


Bodie arrived at about the same time to pick me up and offered fitting ceremonial libations...

Part of the plan with him coming to meet in San Diego was to catch up with a mutual friend from Antarctica, Jody Jahn, who by chance was to be in town as well. We met her at the towering Grand Hyatt Manchester, which made our hostel look like...well, a hostel, then headed out for food, a dive bar along with Jody's colleague Amy, finishing the night off at a fancy rooftop club called Altitude, overlooking downtown, the harbor and Petco Field. A lazy Sunday breakfast wrapped up a great finish to the trip.


Back to Dana Point to pack and ship the bike, taste a few more West Coast beers, enjoy the comforts of RV living, and mentally prepare to return to the Midwest climate. Currently, I'm at the San Diego airport with about 30 minutes before takeoff and am extremely excited to be headed home for the holidays. I feel lucky to have that to look forward to and to have this great experience under my belt. I was thinking that this trip would be largely a solo experience, apart from the Ross time and city stops. But, it ended up being filled with classic encounters with other travellers as well as countless run-ins with generous and wonderful folks along the way. A West Coast bicycle brewery tour is something I'd highly recommend to anyone up for the adventure...ciao for now

Recent Characters from the Road

Ben, with his surfboard lashed to a PVC rack, was on a trial run from Monterrey to Pismo to see how it all held up. The windy days hit him pretty hard. His hopes are to eventually get a crew together and to a big tour while filming the adventure.

Bill – This guy has been on what he calls “the ride” for the last 5 years. His bike, dubbed Tankzilla, weighs 175 lbs without him on it. I think it gets pushed a lot. Its got all the bells and whistles including little safety corks to put onto the antlers for heavy pedestrian areas.

Bob just finished a continental divide trail from Alberta to the border and was now heading north to his Canadian homeland.


Gabi and Christian, the Germans, have toured all over the world including Cuba, S. Africa, New Zealand, Australia, and much more. Currently, they are on a San Francisco to San Diego leg, with a left turn from there and a final destination of Miami.


We spent a few great days together, including the 100 mile push through L.A. and a little bit of drafting from a club ride near Ventura that ended up with coffee with their crew...

The last character I came across was my ex-workmate from this Winter season down in Antarctica. Bodie has worked in California at various xmas tree lots for the past few years. Turns out this year it happened to be in Dana Point with the lot right on the Pacific Coast Bike Route.

Bodie has been an ace as a support guy. He swooped through our campsite a few nights ago on his way from Santa Barbara to Dana Point with a 6-pack and chocolate (only to receive $108 in parking fees from the California State Park System). He put a roof over my head for 2 nights in Dana Point, and is meeting me at the border for a pickup and a night in San Diego. Pretty sweet package.

Campsites

Lots of campsites in the last 5 weeks. In Oregon and California, most state parks have a designated area for hikers/bikers for fees in the $3-5 range, which are available even if the campground is full. Here are some shots of the last few...

Refugio State Beach, N of Santa Barbara

Slightly suspicious Pismo State Park convinced me to bring the bike inside for the night.

Julia Pfeiffer State Park on the Big Sur coast

Sunset State Park near San Luis Obispo

Bush camping in WA where the campground options were less abundant. Glad I had the hammock option.

The Casualty

The first major casualty of the trip occurred just south of S.F. on a nice descent into Pacifica. After two days off I was a bit careless with securely attaching everything to my bike. I’m going 30 mph down a hill when a stuff sack containing stove and fuel bottle fall from the bike and skid into the road. I slam on my brakes and attempt to run back up the road. Three or four cars negotiate past it successfully but as I get close some dude nails it. It was bleeding fuel as I approached. Very sad...

Upon further inspection, its been deemed "out of order". I bent the stove back into shape but the pump has lost some vitals and leaks. So, I cooked on either a fire or a $2 sterno can for a couple days before putting together the famous soda can alcohol stove.

Blurry photo, but the pieces fit together quite snug and it works pretty well. A little alcohol in the middle and after warming up it blazes out of the little holes along the edge like a gas burner. I’m on the lookout for some big Foster’s cans for the next edition…

The City

My third trip across the golden gate bridge was the 1st time I was able to see it. Too much fog both times before, but this day was crystal clear. The sight of the bridge and all of the people crossing it was impressive. Right away someone said, "welcome to San Francisco", and my smile only got wider.

What a bridge.

We entered the city on a Friday. We cycled through Crissy Field and to the Fisherman's Wharf. It was the tourist route through the city to the Mission District and full of people. This is where Andy and I parted ways. With one last burrito and a pint, we split paths and mine brought me to the door of Josh Wiese and Ben Smith.

The city for the weekend was a treat. I met with my dad's cousin Doug for some family time. Josh toured me around for the nightlife/social end of the bargain. A house party by a St. Paul native was the venue for meeting more locals that brightened my travels. It was a good place to spend some time. Anyway, I'm still catching up and its not looking too productive at the Island Brewery right now. The head brewer just announced my itinerary and I may need to explain myself. Parting shot of Sunset Beach State Park - from my campsite...

California

Two weeks into California and so many experiences to filter through. Ross, Andy (Scottish) and I crossed the border on the 30th of Oct, I think. We were situated to make a Halloween run into Arcata, with a friend of Ross's to stay with. A crazy Halloween. Welcome to California!

Shortly after the border was a side-route through some redwoods. It started with a huge climb that rewarded us with what seemed like 8 miles of cruisy downhill to enjoy the big trees.

Ross and I & Andy (Scot) and Ross

Ross jumped a plane in Arcata while Andy and I trucked on towards San Francisco, where our paths would part. We spent 5ish days, with a solid 2 of rain, and had a couple pretty eventful happenings. First, a tooth of mine began to ache over the Halloween weekend. By Sunday night, after cycling from Arcata to the Avenue of the Giants, the swelling and pain had increased dramatically. I hardly slept that night. We were 30 miles from a town with a dentist, BUT the good Scotsman Andy just happens to be one. He explains whats going on...Abscess! Prescription needed immediately and possibly an incise to drain some infectious puss. Here's what it looked like after it got better:

So, we get to the town with the dentist (in the rain). I hope we can just have them call in a drug order and maybe take a quick peek all for a minimal fee. Its obvious to them what's wrong without even looking in my mouth, so the prescription gets called in right away. Andy is outside chatting with the dentist who doesn't want to take a peek and isn't into doing the drain thing. Well, since this was against Andy's professional opinion he was able to talk the doc into letting us use an empty chair and allow the Scot to dig in my mouth and suck out the infection. I couldn't believe it was happening when my soggy, drippy self was having this Scottish guy in full lycra (hot-pink and blue) operate on my mouth. Totally nuts. It felt better immediately after being one of the most uncomfortable experiences of my life. Thanks Andy...

The second story was another rain day. The day after the successful Obama nomination. We were upbeat and cheery due to the lift in hope for the world and weren't expecting any rain. It was supposed to be 20%. It was more like 100. So we're wet and talking about how nice a roof would be for the night, maybe a barn full of hay to spread our stuff out and dry. That turns into wishes for hot showers and fluffy cotton towels, maybe some laundering and a roaring fire. Obviously a big cozy bed was on the wish-list. Well, 1/2 mile from our destination soggy campground we pass a feed store with a big trailer full of hay bales. I see it and stop. Its a sign. I ask Andy (he's got the accent) to go and ask if we can spend the night in it, which would be a huge upgrade from a wet campground in the rain. They say "yes". We say "sweet". We hang out and chat and help them move a few things as they wrap up their day. Eventully they lock up and head out. We are smiling at this point, our barn full of hay kinda came true. UNTIL...Max (the patriarch) comes back as we are getting our cook stoves out, asks us out to dinner as well an invitation to spend the night at their house. Guess what? Dinner, an amazing house with a roaring fire, laundry, hot showers with fluffy cotton towels, big cozy beds, and we hadn't even thought far enough to an egg and toast breakfast. I woke up to the sound of the coffee grinder, my favorite way! I gotta say it was everything we could have wished for. Thanks a million to Julie Max and Richie...
Parting shots of the coast north of San Francisco and the first glimpse of the city from Sausalito.
S.F. and south update shortly...

Dogs, Logging Trucks and RVs

I have to say that I do not really care for any of the above while I am riding my bicycle, but there is definitely an order it.
Dogs - Love em. But, when they start barking and running, with their eyes gleaming at your meaty calves, they can get you a little anxious. Luckily, there is usually a fence that this is all taking place behind so the stress doesn't last long. They do make the list of stressful things, even though only barely.


Logging Trucks - Big trucks with trailers, commonly found on lots of the scenic side roads the coastal bike route follows. I don't love when these guys come blazing by, usually in pairs, but they usually do a pretty good job of giving some extra space. Not all roads have the smooth 4+ foot shoulder like this one so that does become important:

It is those side roads that end up being the huge highlights. You can't beat dropping off of a stretch of freeway, which can end up feeling like mainly work, to enter dozens of miles of redwood groves and empty roads.

But back to the shoulder space...Logging trucks do pretty good most of the time. Most tractor-trailer drivers, in general, tend to make an effort. The most consistent intruders into my roadside comfort are absolutely Recreational Vehicles. Don't know why, but they are the worst drivers out there in respect to giving a little road love.
This rig, however, I'd pull over for any day...Go Barack Obama!

Oregon

I finished up Washington with a few days of pedaling, a mixture of campsites that were more desirable and less, and made it to the great cycling state of Oregon. The bridge that stands before it, across the Columbia River, is over 3 miles long and quite freaky...

In Oregon, the state provides an impressive cycling map of the coast, a ton of state parks with hiker/biker sites for a mere $4, and a fair share of quality breweries, which all go together quite well. When it works out, like my first day in OR, you can have a lunch pint at one brewpub, an afternoon pint 20-30 miles later and make it to a state park campground by dark. A good day.

Just South of Cannon Beach are two huge hills and I had to wonder if this guy knew some shortcut. It looked like he was cruising pretty good.

Tillamook, OR is where I had the pleasure to meet up with Ross again. He chose wisely to take his week off on the Oregon coast versus the Washington bit. We had a good time with the cheese freaks before we headed south to meet up with Portland locals/ex-Duluth natives/expecting parents, Tomas and Angie.

The next big brewery experience was at the epic and amazing Rogue Brewery. We enjoyed this place as much as anyone could. The place has a great story, 40 of their beers on tap, and the friendliest barstaff we've come across.

I'll finish this off with a couple pics from today. A slow start with a flat for Ross, and another day with our Scottish cyclist friend Andy with our eyes set on the California border sometime tomorrow afternoon.

Washington

So, I fly into Seattle, get picked up by the great Gretchen, eat an amazing grilled Salmon and salad dinner with her and boyfriend James, then get hooked up with sweet lodging in Gretchen's alley.

The following night I join the Lockharts and bad uncle Jeff Carrier for some chef Walker chow (thanks for the recipe) and some fun and games with Nintendo Wii. Too bad I couldn't get the 2 dogs or the cat in the photo with Walker, Dana, Jeff and the Lockhart twins.

Next stop...Bellingham,WA. Caught up with the Duluth/B-ham transplant crew for bike rides, disc golf, beer tastings, and bike tuning. These 2 guys really know what they are doing.

Ross and I pedaled the first leg of the trip on Friday, from the border back to Bellingham. A quick, rainy, unloaded ride was a good way to start.

Rode Saturday with Ross from Bellingham to Whidbey Island, also sans gear, and met with Iris, Kirk and Noel for camping, smores, and another grilled salmon special. Sunday was the day to split with the crew, head over to the Olympic Peninsula, and eventually to the coast, which is where I sit now. A few more photos before I hop on the saddle...

Crossing the bridge to Whidbey Island,

First time fully loaded

Ciao for now to Iris and Ross

Although its early in the trip, its been nothing but great so far. Its perfect to be able to see old friends again, in some cases multiple years, and have it seem like we didn't miss a beat. Same to be said for all the friends and family back home, which did really feel like home. I gotta say I feel grateful for all the cool people in my life. Enough of that, its finally warming up with clear skies and a gentle breeze. Vroom...